The Rolex Explorer II, unlike its more understated sibling, the Explorer, is a watch that speaks of adventure and exploration. While sharing the robust Oyster Perpetual lineage, the Explorer II distinguishes itself with its highly functional 24-hour hand, a feature crucial for navigating in low-light conditions or across multiple time zones. This article delves into the rich chronology of the Explorer II, exploring its evolution through different references, highlighting key design changes, and examining the details that have made it a coveted piece for adventurers and watch enthusiasts alike.
The Explorer II, in many ways, represents a departure from the classic elegance often associated with Rolex. While the standard Explorer embodies a refined tool watch aesthetic, the Explorer II leans towards a more rugged, purpose-built design, reflecting its intended use in demanding environments. Less flashy than the GMT-Master II with its rotating bezel and multiple time zone functionality, and less bulky than some of the professional dive watches in Rolex's arsenal, the Explorer II carves its own niche: a highly legible and robust tool watch perfectly suited for explorers and adventurers.
The Genesis of a Legend: Early References (1655 & 16550)
The first generation of the Explorer II, reference 1655, debuted in 1971. This watch marked a significant step for Rolex, introducing the now-iconic 24-hour hand for the first time in a production model. The 1655 featured a fixed bezel with luminous markers, a large luminous triangle at 12 o'clock, and a matte black dial. Its robust 36mm Oyster case, while smaller than modern standards, provided ample protection for the movement within. The dial designs varied slightly throughout its production run, with some variations featuring a slightly different typeface and lume plots. The movement powering the 1655 was the caliber 1570, a reliable workhorse known for its accuracy and durability. These early Explorer IIs are highly sought after by collectors today, representing the origins of this iconic model. Their vintage appeal, combined with their robust build and historical significance, makes them highly prized pieces.
The reference 16550, which followed, represented a refinement of the original design. Introduced in 1984, this model retained the core functionality of the 1655 but incorporated several subtle changes. The most noticeable difference was the switch from the acrylic crystal to a more scratch-resistant sapphire crystal. Minor adjustments were also made to the dial and hands, reflecting evolving design aesthetics and manufacturing techniques. The movement was upgraded to the caliber 3085, offering improved reliability and performance. While not drastically different from its predecessor, the 16550 represents a step forward in terms of durability and longevity.
The Modern Era: Reference 16570 & The Polar Explorer II
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